God created the heavens and the earth, the oceans and the waves for our enjoyment. Surfing is just my way of worshipping Him.
I'm no romantic, surfing, California boy. I like reading, writing, philosophizing. Scheming. I've been doing some exploration of the inner space.
I surfed Dana Point, San Clemente, and of course Huntington Beach. Every morning, you could find me at the hot water pipe.
Actually, watching television and surfing the Internet are really excellent practice for being dead.
When I moved to L.A. in 1989, the very first thing I did was this horrific pilot called To Protect And Surf.
When I'm not surfing or sailing, I am to be found at the harbour working on my boat.
I've worked everywhere. I worked in a warehouse packing surf supplies, a restaurant washing dishes, in retail, and I was a 'sandwich artist' at Subway.
'Never Have Your Dog Stuffed' is really advice to myself, a reminder to myself not to avoid change or uncertainty, but to go with it, to surf into change.
I love Hawaii. I really enjoy surfing in Oahu, and Waianae is such a great area. And Maui - I like Maui a lot, too.
When I enjoy my surfing, I get good results, and I've always had fun in South Africa.
As I'd go out learning to surf, I'd feel the power of waves coming over my body. It's like you're with God.
I absolutely love any kind of outdoor activities like snowboarding, hiking, surfing, and laying out on the beach if I ever get the time... which is not often!
I love the ocean; growing up around Laguna Beach, I spent my summers surfing, diving, and snorkeling.
I would love to rent a little cottage or cabin in Colorado and learn to ski or snowboard. And on the warmer side, I also want to rent a house in Hawaii and learn to surf!
Now that I'm older, I like almost anything that's done well, even surf music and instrumentals; I really enjoyed the interviews with the Ventures in your magazine.
Besides writing music and surfing, I like to simply chill with my friends. Watching movies and going out to eat are often my prime choices for a day off.
Surfing makes me happy, so that's just what I'm going to keep doing.
If you recognize a face while surfing through 200 channels, you will stop and listen. Celebrities give a positive aura and people like them. Their message appeals to people.
Surfing is such an amazing concept. You're taking on Nature with a little stick and saying, 'I'm gonna ride you!' And a lot of times Nature says, 'No you're not!' and crashes you to the bottom.
I still use quill and parchment. I do e-mails, and I write, but I don't go around surfing too much.
I loved the sound of the ocean, the breaking surf, the vastness, but still didn't feel terribly comfortable in it.
