A journey of observation must leave as much as possible to chance. Random movement is the best plan for maximum observation
Enlightenment, and the death which comes before it, is the primary business of Varanasi.
There is nothing quite as unpleasant as wearing a pair of briefs which have been trailed through a Calcutta courtyard. Nothing, that is, except having one's elbows and knees lacerated by unseen slivers of glass and discarded razor blades.
A cross between a foreign legion boot-camp and a secret-society initiation ritual, the ordeals were grounded in pain. One thing was obvious: the agenda, which was dedicated to grave discomfort, had been drawn up by a passionate sadist.
The mere mention of the Farakka Express, which jerks its way eastward each day from Delhi to Calcutta, is enough to throw even a seasoned traveller into fits of apoplexy. At a desert encampment on Namibia's Skeleton Coast, a hard-bitten adventurer ha...
The pursuit of illusion is not about studying for prizes, or for study's sake. There's no right or wrong, no pass or fail.
My father looked on in disbelief, overwhelmed that his son had been taught to eat glass and relish it.
Where does one go in a tremendous city like Calcutta to find insider information? I recalled India's golden rule: do the opposite of what would be normal anywhere else.
Calcutta's the only city I know where you are actively encouraged to stop strangers at random for a quick chat.
Respect was one thing. Survival was another. It was important that I kept my priorities in the right order.
An intelligent enemy,' he would say, stroking his beard as if it were a bristly pet, 'rather than a foolish friend.' Or, 'He learnt the language of pigeons, and forgot his own.' Or, the favourite of Jan Fishan Khan: 'Nothing is what it seems.
Nothing is what it seems. Favoured Pashtu proverb of Jan Fishan Khan.
